Liberty & Justice For All: Remembering & Observing Independence Day

Lady Arabella's father's side got over that whole Revolution contretemps ages ago, btw. Here, we peek at USA and GB celebratory food & drinks from Revolution to Bicentennial.

“Darling, with my English and American heritages, I am so intrigued at a historical side-by-side. Instead of ‘Who Wore It Best?,’ more of a ‘Who Ate the Best?’ Starting with the Big Break-up! July 4, 1776. The drama!” Lady Arabella flips the tail ends of her white feather boa. “Delicious in every way!”

And so, we will track besties America and Great Britain from the Big Break-up AKA Revolution in 1776 to a Gracious Reunion in 1976. Through the lens of July 4, on both sides of the Atlantic. What did the nations share, where diverge? Much juicy history and culinary evolution to follow.

1776, Philadelphia, City of Brotherly Love and Open Sewers. Ale, ale, ale, ale, wine, whiskey, ale, ale, ale. Because plain water’s not actually potable unless you want to risk fatal diseases like cholera and the black vomit, etc. No TEA. Because, you know. Making a point here, King George III.

1776, That Green and Pleasantly Tyrannical Land. Tea. Pots and pots of the stuff. Ale, ale, ale, ale, wine, whisky, ale, ale, ale. Because plain water’s not actually potable unless you want to risk fatal diseases like cholera and the black vomit, etc. More TEA. Because, you know. Making a point here, General George W.

1847, New York. The consumption of “cold collations” oft enjoyed out of doors is well established for this sweltering time of the year. Sliced ham and poultry, chicken and lobster salads, various breads and crackers, slices of cake and macaroons. For beverages, one estimable lady noted, “a fine bowl of temperance beverage and bottled soda, which will generally leave a more clear recollection, than wines, cordials, and champagne.”

1847, London. Wines, cordials, and champagne. Some recollections are so unpleasant. Still happy to forget all about that Revolutionary War and the embarrassing retreat from New Orleans to the Gulf of Mexico in 1814. Much more diverting to enjoy cod with oyster sauce, Jerusalem artichokes, cabbage, green beans, potatoes, ragout of ox palates, gooseberries and cherries and strawberries, Regency-inspired Lemon Ice. We do banquets best. Ahem!

1863, The American Confederacy. “Their skimpy beef ration already exhausted, they began eating mule on July 1, 1863. 'All who partook of it spoke highly of the dish,' said one Rebel. 'Mule meat was regularly served out in rations to the troops from and after 4th of July.’” *

1863, Derbyshire. Mules are for carts. Not supper. Mind, a wedge of Fidgety Pie and a Bakewell Pudding or three would fill ye up.

1877, Indianapolis. Served at a free, public, 4th of July barbecue: One 1,600-pound ox and “numerous fine fat sheep.”

1877, London. “1,600-pound ox and numerous fine fat sheep? Not bad. Might we have truffle sauce with that? And a nice trifle?”

1904, USA. Ladies across the nation are brought to task by the author of “The Good Housekeeping Hostess” for gently moaning that boys and gentlemen have a lot more fun on the 4th of July holiday than they do. The solution? More work! But prettier! Decorate everything possible in red, white and blue, including tying ribbons around individual sandwiches, stacks and stacks of ‘em. The recipe for Sandwiches à la Valley Forge uses fillers of ham and tongue, “served cold.” One wonders if the author means to employ such cruel irony via dainty sandwiches, given that 1,700 to 2,000 American soldiers died in the Valley Forge winter quarters, suffering diseases, malnutrition from poor food supply, and bitterly cold, wet weather in mostly disintegrating clothing.

1904, England. As they pop their bottles of champagne, picnickers can also look back with fond pride and gratitude to the English aristocrat John Montagu, 4th Earl of Sandwich. Legend has it he could not be bothered to stop gambling long enough to dine, yet he needed sustenance! A hunk of meat was slapped between slices of toasted bread. He could continue frittering away his fortune at a gaming table with one hand and dine heartily with the other. No utensils required. While it does not follow that Montagu was the first person ever to dine on meat between slices of bread, whose name is attached, eh? This genre-defining event took place in the 1700s, so GB wins the early round on sandwiches. No record found of the Brits tying theirs up with dainty ribbons.

1933, USA. Kitchen-bound, American mothers receive a bit more empathy from a female journalist for The Christian Science Monitor. “The children want picnics or parties, and father wants a good time.” Mother can get in on the fun, the kind journalist advises, if only clever Mother plans. Fanfare: Paper plates and cups! Hip-hip-hurrah for progress! Annnnnd, mother can cook and chill a wide variety of foods a day or two in advance so she doesn’t have to cook on the actual holiday. Two days of solid work but not on the 4th of July itself. Now, wasn’t that fun? A whole day off. More fun than usual? The march of progress, indeed.

1933, London. British Prime Minister Neville Chamberlain believes it’s better to appease that aggressive Hitler fellow who’s starting to land-grab his way across the European continent. Herr Hitler will surely leave their island nation alone and be satisfied with the Continent, if the English just stay out of it, right, chaps? The world is still staggering from a Depression and memories of the horrors of the Great War linger. Former colony and current ally, America, across the wide Atlantic, is certainly keeping itself to itself. As war clouds gather across the Channel, England’s people may not be in the mood for frolicking picnics and luxurious banquets but the British do distinguish themselves in the 1930s as the world’s biggest consumers of refined sugar. Much from which to choose in 1933 with the invention of the Mars Bars, Smarties, Rolos and KitKats, amongst other manufactured sweets.

1939, Hyde Park, NY, President and Mrs. Roosevelt’s summer home. 4th of July cookout guests are served hot dogs, Boston baked beans, cold meats, lettuce and tomato salad, watermelon, coffee, soft drinks and beer. Franklin and Eleanor come from wealthy, patrician families so naturally fine cuisine has always been a given in their lives; however, Eleanor feels great sympathy for the plight of millions of Americans thrown out of work, struggling and hungry because of the Great Depression. She requests greatly simplified menus at the White House and in their other entertaining. Franklin fails to be terribly amused at the appearance of a grilled cheese sandwich at one White House dinner. Pretty sure he eats it though. What else could he do? Demand truffle sauce? Really, Franklin.

1939, Buckingham Palace. Almost a month before the 4th of July, 1939, King George VI and Queen Elizabeth visit the Roosevelts at Mount Vernon, George Washington’s final home. Eleanor serves hot dogs. Pretty sure they eat them. No official record of what Their Majesties think. Perhaps they recall John Montagu, 4th Earl of Sandwich?

1942, USA. On the homefront, citizens are too busy with wartime production demands, tending their Victory Gardens and minding their ration books to celebrate Independence Day.

1942, Great Britain. On the homefront, citizens are too busy with German bombs falling on them and the horrific aftermath for much of anything else.

1949, USA. The holiday menu is simplifying in many cities where folks can now easily pick up prepared sandwiches and side dishes, a nice watermelon and baked sweets at a grocery or deli. More elaborate meals prepared in one’s own kitchen do remain. New England still enjoys its poached salmon dinners and the South relishes its fried chicken. However, long hours of labor in the kitchen to prepare foods to celebrate July 4 seem to be evolving into a thing of the past.

1949, England. Post-war rationing of many foods stays in effect until the early 1950s. Keeping it simple as a matter of course. Carry on.

1956, USA. Hey, Boomer! Yes, you. Born in a post-war economic boom that expands the middle class and the suburban dream at an unprecedented rate. It’s possible to be fancy and celebratory at more than one meal a day, if one chooses. Not only a festive cookout by the pool but also a special brunch! Tell us, Boomer, does Mom ever let you sit with the grown-ups for this 4th of July Brunch from her Good Housekeeping trove? Does Mom pour from a bottle marked Vodka into the grown-ups’ Tomato Juice with Olive Kabobs? We can keep a secret.

"Fourth of July Brunch. Tomato Juice with Olive Kabobs, Date-Filled French Toast with Bacon, Choice of Syrups, Milk, Coffee.
Date-Filled French Toast with Bacon: Spread 4 bread slices with 2 3-oz. pkg cream cheese. Top with one 6 1/4 oz pkg. pitted dates, snipped, then with 4 bread slices. In a pie plate, mix 2 eggs, 1/3 cup milk, 1/4 teasp. salt; into this, dip both sides of each sandwich. Brown sandwiches on both sides in 1/4 cup hot butter in skillet. Meanwhile, start heating oven to 400 degrees F. Separate 12 bacon slices; place on rack in shallow pan. Bake 12 min., or until crisp; use to garnish toast. Makes 4 servings."
---"Book of 50 Special Summer-Menu Surprises," Good Housekeeping, July 1956

1956, Great Britain. Post-war rationing is over, yet for most people, food remains very simple, plain “meat and two veg.” Nothing can be wasted. There is no such thing as leftover food. Not for the common man. Any food the humans do not finish, “goes into the dog!” That’s all Buddy gets. And very lucky he counts himself. Buddy could be on the street, foraging in rubble, couldn’t he?

1976, USA. The Bicentennial of our Independence! Three cheers for the Red, White & Blue! Given the march of progress, Mother had enjoyed a brief taste of freedom with deli takeout, paper plates, watermelon. And, with Father manfully grilling the meaty entrée, she should be like a happy sparrow, shouldn’t she? Yet she and many of her sisters get tossed mercilessly back into the hot kitchen. Whether or not they prefer to be there, we must hasten to add. Sandwiches and hot dogs will no longer cut it. Buying your ice cream? Why not homemade? Elaborate menus and unusual dishes in enormous variety are Good Housekeeping’s order of the day for American women. You need never eat the same thing twice! Yum! Bliss! This is the beginning of a surge of artisanal focus on cookery and decor that Martha Stewart will ride to incredible wealth and influence (and a short prison term— not related to cookery and decorating).

1976, Philadelphia. Queen Elizabeth II visits multiple U.S. cities during our Bicentennial and delivers her speeches with the voice of reason, grace and amity. (An excerpt of her speech in Philly follows.)

“I speak to you as the direct descendant of King George III. He was the last crowned sovereign to rule in this country, and it is therefore with a particular personal interest that I view those events which took place 200 years ago.

It seems to me that Independence Day, the Fourth of July, should be celebrated as much in Britain as in America. Not in rejoicing in the separation of the American colonies from the British crown but in sincere gratitude to the Founding Fathers of the great Republic for having taught Britain a very valuable lesson.

We lost the American colonies because we lacked that statesmanship ‘to know the right time, and the manner of yielding what is impossible to keep.’

But the lesson was well learned. In the next century and a half we kept more closely to the principles of Magna Carta, which have been the common heritage of both our countries.

We learned to respect the right of others to govern themselves in their own ways. This was the outcome of experience learned the hard way in 1776. Without it, that great act in the cause of liberty, performed in Independence Hall 200 years ago, we could never have transformed an empire into a commonwealth.”

THUS endeth this culinary history lesson through America’s first 200 years. The grand, sometimes resplendent, sometimes tragic story of the United States of America continues. And, 2026 will mark 250 years since the signing of the Declaration of Independence.

Americans, we wish you courage in times of hardship, comfort from fellowship, love from familial ties, security from connection to worldwide allies and—although freedom is a big and complex subject— simple pleasures and joys on this 4th of July. Make yourself or purchase yourself a delicious spread of delectables.

NOTE: The Southern style of potato salad always has chopped boiled egg and a hint of sweetness, all bound together by mayonnaise. Many Southern versions include mustard but A.O. grew up on potato salad without mustard, so it’s listed here as optional. Can be served warm just after making or chilled and featured in a cookout or picnic. Leftovers must be refrigerated.

There’s a whole world of potato salad recipes out there. Some combine sour cream with the mayo for more tang in the dressing. Some drag the potato salad through the garden, tossing in grape tomatoes, celery, parsley, garlic, onion or scallions or shallots, and even broccoli. Some throw chopped bits of crispy bacon on top. Not here, darlings! Some potato salads simply feature a tart vinaigrette, all creaminess eschewed. Delish but a bit less outdoor friendly, in our opinion. The creamy mayo actually makes the potato salad easier to serve and to get into your mouth in a big, yummy glob without dropping any.

Across families, even within families, people play with the ingredient proportions below to suit what they love best for flavor and texture. Explore!

POTATO SALAD, SOUTHERN STYLE. Vegetarian. Serves 4. Easily doubles.

BASE INGREDIENTS:

2 pounds russet potatoes, peeled and cubed

1/2 to 1 teaspoon kosher salt (for boiling water)

1 or 2 boiled eggs

1/2 cup mayonnaise (Duke’s mayo pref.)

2 Tablespoons diced, sweet pickle or sweet pickle relish (if you want to add some diced dill pickle, no harm done)

Salt and pepper to taste

OPTIONAL INGREDIENTS:

1/2 to 1 teaspoon sugar (*if you use dill rather than sweet pickles, this becomes essential)

1 to 1 1/2 teaspoons mustard (pref yellow but can substitute)

3/4 teaspoon celery seed

1 1/2 teaspoons vinegar, white OR apple cider

OPTIONAL GARNISH:

Dusting of sweet paprika

1. Fill a deep pot with water sufficient to cover your diced potatoes by 2 inches, allowing room above for bubbles to rise without overflowing. Add kosher salt. Bring to boil over high heat.

2. Add peeled, cubed russet potatoes to boiling water and cook for about 10 minutes or ‘til a test cube is fork tender. Check the pot a few times to be sure it’s not boiling over. If it looks a little too vigorous, can lower heat to medium-high.

3. While potato cubes are boiling, peel and chop your egg(s) and add to a medium mixing bowl.

4. Drain boiled potato cubes in a strainer/colander. Shake gently.

5. *Optional step but great for texture: Return emptied, deep pot to burner at medium-high heat. Returned drained potato cubes to empty pot. Use a long-handled wooden spoon or cooking spatula to stir the potatoes, moving them around the bottom and sides of the pot. A light film will form on the pot. This is a sign the heat has pulled extraneous moisture from the potatoes.

6. Transfer potato cubes to the medium mixing bowl of chopped eggs.

7. Add mayo and your choice of diced pickle or pickle relish to a small bowl.

8. Transfer contents of small mixing bowl to large mixing bowl. Add any optional ingredients you wish. Stir all together thoroughly. Adjust to taste.

9. Add salt and pepper to taste. Optional garnish of sweet paprika.

*Source of 1863 quote: A Taste for War: A Culinary History of the Blue and the Gray, William C. Davis [Stackpole Books:Mechanicsburg PA] 2003 (p.118)